H&H Floor Sanding protocol:

INSTALLING:

Species selection: the variety in with wood flooring is astonishing. We Love to acquaint customers with all options.

sub floor: we recommend the homebuilder install 5/8 “ or, 3/4” plywood, or advantec. 5/8” thick planks also work.

sub floor preparation: All nails are pounded in. any bumps are scrapped off. the seams of sub flooring are sanded level.

Under layment Paper: This is good for noise reduction and as a vapor barrier. We will use it unless otherwise specified. direction: the aesthetic value of facing a floor the right way far outweigh any structural considerations.

Proper flooring array: special attention is paid to ensure board ends are in proper relation to one another. this helps to establish a deliberate absence of pattern in the flooring.

Set Up: the first three courses of boards to be nailed down set the tone for the rest. they must be perfectly aligned with the wall or straight object that will be seen when the room is being used. the doorway entering the room is the typical vantage point for making this determination.

No Cracks: with our specialized tools and methods we force all boards to contact the boards next to them. this includes those within a foot of the walls.

Frames: Hearths, and other objects that interrupt the field of flooring should have frames around them. we are careful that the frame appear to have no reference in the surrounding flooring. Keeping the board ends away from the corners of the frame, and avoiding the edge of the frame meeting the edge of a row of flooring; these are two of the main rules in frames.

Exterior door Moisture Sinks: We keep all wood flooring away from direct water exposure by leaving an inch and a half space around doorways, which is shielded by a special wooden threshold molding. this is why our floors don’t get the water damage to which these areas are prone.

Filler: species specific in color. applied to all voids in the surface from countersunk face nails. Unless otherwise specified we will not use filler in longwise cracks, as the boards change shape side to side, thereby squeezing filler out over time

SAND & FINISH:

dust: People are always surprised at how little dust comes from our work. The machines collect their own dust.

The big machine: the first step is done with a machine that weighs over two hundred pounds, and needs to be plugged into a 220 volt clothes dryer or oven electrical outlet. Typically, 40 grit sandpaper is used first. If 6o grit will sand the floor to bare wood, that will be used. the idea is to get the floor to bare wood while taking off as little wood as possible. sometimes 30 grit, 24 grit, or even 16 grit must be used to break whatever coating is on the floor. In any case, the floor is then sanded with progressively higher grits, in increments of 20, up to 80 grit. (60 for soft wood).

the edger: an aggressive edger is used for the first cut, to get what the big machine couldn’t reach. The final sanding of the edges is done with a finish sander. all sanding marks are obliterated in this process.

the buffer: this is a heavy electric motor fitted with a long handle and a 15 inch drive plate that spins on the floor. we use a special specific orbital drive plate that brings even greater uniformity to the floor’s surface.

The one inch scraper: a foot long hardwood handle fitted with a scraping blade that is sharpened constantly with a hand file. this is used in the corners. the corners have to look just like the rest of the floor.

old fashioned radiators: once in a great while there is a radiator that is too close to the ground to fit any tools beneath. In all but these rare cases we can offer the service of sanding and finishing underneath radiators.

vacuuming: we sweep, vacuum, and tack the floor with a towel, prior to putting on the finish. every step makes a difference.

Between Coats Buffing: this ensures a smooth finish.

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